Okay, so this trip was in APRIL, and its now SEPTEMBER...Some places are just difficult to put into words. They are too big, too wild, too much. But as Portland slips quickly from summer into fall, I find my mind drifting to certain places on this high desert lunar landscape...and thought I should try to share...
Our visit to Hart Mountain was the second leg of our April trip to Southeastern Oregon, following the overnight hike to the Hager Mountain Fire Lookout.
After hiking out of Hager, we hit the road towards Summer Lake. At Summer Lake Hot Springs , we stopped in to say hello (we would be staying there two nights later on the last leg of our trip) and the very sweet and friendly manager Diana let us use the phone. We wanted to check in with our friend Jen, who was on her way up from California to join us on the rest of the trip. Turns out we were all about an hour from Lakeview, our arranged meeting place before heading out to Hart.
Back on the road, Jeff and I proceeded southeast through the town of Paisley, and then cut across the high desert farmland beneath Abert Rim (another 2000 ft fault scarp), finally heading south into Lakeview. We met Jen in the Safeway parking lot, grabbed a few groceries, and did a quick pass through the Burger Queen drive-thru.
Heading northeast out of Lakeview towards Hart Mtn, we traveled across the Warner Mtn pass and out into the Warner Valley . We kept pulling over to check out herds of pronhorn antelope grazing in the sagebrush along the road. The last stop for gas is at the store in Plush (population 82). Past Plush, the road follows another 25 miles along the edge of the Warner Lakes, seasonal wetlands that are a haven for an incredible number of different types of migrating birds. Our favorite were the elegant Sandhill Cranes, which we saw both solitary along the lapping shoreline and grazing in "herds" of at least 20 in the wetland grasses.
Like Steens Mountain (visible in the distance due east), the Hart Mtn. refuge lies atop a massive fault block that rises nearly three-quarters of a mile above the valley floor below. However, while Steens distinct U-shaped valleys give the mountain a rugged quality, Hart has a much softer and gentler terrain, a muted sagebrush moonscape dotted with soft, triangular peaks.
Arriving at the refuge around 5pm, we stopped in at the headquarters to sign the guest book and specify our itinerary/destination for our trip - 2 nights and hiking through DeGarmo Canyon. We then drove several more miles along the dirt road into the refuge to the Hot Springs Campground, where we found two very nice campsites along the willowed banks of a small creek.
While Jeff set up camp, Jen and I took a short walk up through the sagebrush to a dark and quiet aspen grove along another stream. Tiny wildflowers clustered around rocks. We walked back to camp, and joined Jeff in the hot spring as the first stars started to appear. After so much anticipation, it was wonderful to be in this beautiful and peaceful place.
Though we were prepared to backpack, we all decided that we would simply do a long dayhike and return to camp where we could enjoy a bigger meal and another evening soak in the spring. After a very cold nite, we awoke to brilliant blue skies and a scattering of snow on the ground. After a morning soak, we packed up food, water and suncreen and headed out for our hike . Our first destination was Bernhardi Cabin - an old abandoned hunting shack - and up De Garmo Canyon to the notch in the fault block, where we could look back down to the Warner Valley on the west side of the ridge.
The dogs were in heaven, picking up the scents of critters on the wind, and rolling in drifts of spring snow. Apart from the road leading out from the hot springs campground, there are no trails on the refuge. Thirteen miles of walking through knee-high sagebrush (wear pants!) is its own special kind of meditation, definitely making you slow down and think about where you place your feet.
After checking out the cabin, we had a quick snack and then headed up DeGarmo Canyon. Again trailless, we followed the aspen-banked stream up to the notch. About half way up, we scared a great- horned owl out of the trees, and it flew about 20 feet from us. All along the canyon, we scanned the fault ridge for big-horned sheep. After lunch at the top of the ridge, we headed back down and decided to hike over to another high point on the other side of the refuge.
This is where it gets hard to explain the magnitude of the refuge. What looked like a several mile hike across two ridges ended up being around eight or so miles, up and down at least seven ridges. Between the steep ridges were snowy aspen groves and cold streams meandering through the tundra , creating the illusion of little islands in the meadows. At the tops of the ridges were these surreal, spiky trees and rock outcroppings.
Around 3pm, we found ourselves along the side of yet another ridge, with one more valley to cross before reaching the sloping ridge that would let us ascend to our destination. Jen decided to head straight down through the snow and back up the other side, while I wanted to stay in the group and follow the ridge to the head of the cirque. Either way, we knew we'd meet up on the other side.
Jeff joined me in walking to the head of the cirque, and we were amazed by the view at the head of the canyon. We were almost at equal elevation to the summit of Hart Moutain, its snowing slopes glittering off to the West. We had a 360 degree view of Hart, Steens Mtn to the east, the Nevada desert to the South, along with Mt. Shasta, and the Oregon desert unfolding in front of us to the north. A picture just wouldn't do this spot justice. It was just top of the world beautiful.
After meeting back up with Jen, we pushed on to the nameless peak that loomed above the hot springs campground. The dogs were dead tired from working their way through the sage, but we all enjoyed kicking back at the the summit - especially Elka.
Check out all the pictures here .
Found the link to this continuation of the first post. Awesome trek reporting and photos, really enjoying the vicarious thrill here from my computer room.
I know these are archived, but I thought posting would be nice regardless.
Bpaul
My fire lookout journal blog:
www.forestjester.blogspot.com
My regular blog:
www.bugthumper.blogspot.com
Posted by: Brandon | April 11, 2007 at 12:06 AM
Great pictures and descriptions. I'm thinking of doing a 2-3 night backpack at Heart Mt. at the end of June. Any suggestions? Thanks ~ Jeff
fennell@u.washington.edu
Posted by: Jeff | May 27, 2008 at 04:48 PM