LeKnott

Summer Lake Hot Springs 2007

Last weekend we enjoyed our third annual Memorial Day trip with good friends to stay at the amazing Summer Lake Hot Springs 'resort' way out in the east of Oregon's high desert.  Check out a few photos here.

Tiempo Bueno

We just returned from two weeks in Costa Rica, focusing our time around various areas in the northern Guanacaste province. We found it a lovely country offering many experiences that were alternatingly relaxing, thought provoking, and inspiring. This photo, taken from horseback, is indicative of the northern countryside nestled between the Pacific Ocean and the Continental Divide. More to come...

Hart Mountain National Antelope Refuge

Okay, so this trip was in APRIL, and its now SEPTEMBER...Some places are just difficult to put into words. They are too big, too wild, too much. But as Portland slips quickly from summer into fall, I find my mind drifting to certain places on this high desert lunar landscape...and thought I should try to share...

Our visit to Hart Mountain was the second leg of our April trip to Southeastern Oregon, following the overnight hike to the Hager Mountain Fire Lookout.

After hiking out of Hager, we hit the road towards Summer Lake. At Summer Lake Hot Springs , we stopped in to say hello (we would be staying there two nights later on the last leg of our trip) and the very sweet and friendly manager Diana let us use the phone. We wanted to check in with our friend Jen, who was on her way up from California to  join us on the rest of the trip. Turns out we were all about an hour from Lakeview, our arranged meeting place before heading out to Hart.

Back on the road, Jeff and I proceeded southeast through the town of Paisley, and then cut across the high desert farmland beneath Abert Rim (another 2000 ft fault scarp), finally heading south into Lakeview. We met Jen in the Safeway parking lot, grabbed a few groceries, and did a quick pass through the Burger Queen drive-thru.

Heading northeast out of Lakeview towards Hart Mtn, we traveled across the Warner Mtn pass and out into the Warner Valley . We kept pulling over  to check out herds of pronhorn antelope grazing in the sagebrush along the road. The last stop for gas is at the store in Plush (population 82). Past Plush, the road follows another 25 miles along the edge of the Warner Lakes, seasonal wetlands that are a haven for an incredible number of different types of migrating birds. Our favorite were the elegant Sandhill Cranes, which we saw both solitary along the lapping shoreline and grazing in "herds" of at least 20 in the wetland grasses.

Like Steens Mountain (visible in the distance due east), the Hart Mtn. refuge lies atop a massive fault block that rises nearly three-quarters of a mile above the valley floor below. However, while Steens distinct U-shaped valleys give the mountain a rugged quality, Hart has a much softer and gentler terrain, a muted sagebrush moonscape dotted with soft, triangular peaks.

Arriving at the refuge around 5pm, we stopped in at the headquarters to sign the guest book and specify our itinerary/destination for our trip  - 2 nights and hiking through DeGarmo Canyon. We then drove several more miles along the dirt road into the refuge to the Hot Springs Campground, where we found two very nice campsites along the willowed banks of a small creek.

While Jeff set up camp, Jen and I took a short walk up through the sagebrush to a dark and quiet aspen grove along another stream. Tiny wildflowers clustered around rocks.  We walked back to camp, and joined Jeff in the hot spring as the first stars started to appear.  After so much anticipation, it was wonderful to be in this beautiful and peaceful place.

Though we were prepared to backpack, we all decided that we would simply do a long dayhike and return to camp where we could enjoy a bigger meal and another evening soak in the spring. After a very cold nite, we awoke to brilliant blue skies and a scattering of snow on the ground. After a morning soak, we packed up food, water and suncreen and  headed out for our hike . Our first destination was Bernhardi Cabin  - an old abandoned hunting shack - and up De Garmo Canyon to the notch in the fault block, where we could look back down to the Warner Valley on the west side of the ridge.

The dogs  were in heaven, picking up the scents of critters  on the  wind, and rolling in drifts of spring snow. Apart from the road leading out from the hot springs campground, there are no trails on the refuge. Thirteen miles of walking through knee-high sagebrush (wear pants!) is its own special kind of meditation, definitely making you slow down and think about where you place your feet.

After checking out the cabin, we had a quick snack and then headed up DeGarmo Canyon. Again trailless, we followed the aspen-banked  stream up to the notch. About half way up, we scared a great- horned owl  out of the trees, and it flew about 20 feet from us. All along the canyon, we scanned the fault ridge  for big-horned sheep. After lunch at the top of the ridge, we headed back down and decided to hike over to another high point on the other side of the refuge.

This is where it gets hard to explain the magnitude of the refuge. What looked like a several mile hike across two ridges ended up being around eight or so miles, up and down at least seven ridges. Between the steep ridges were snowy aspen groves and cold streams meandering through the tundra , creating the illusion of little islands in the meadows. At the tops of the ridges  were these surreal, spiky trees  and rock outcroppings.

Around 3pm, we found ourselves along the side of yet another ridge, with one more valley to cross before reaching the sloping ridge that would let us ascend to our destination. Jen decided to head straight down through the snow and back up the other side, while I wanted to stay in the group and follow the ridge to the head of the cirque. Either way, we knew we'd meet up on the other side.

Jeff joined me in walking to the head of the cirque, and we were amazed by the view at the head of the canyon. We were almost at equal elevation to the summit of Hart Moutain, its snowing slopes glittering off to the West. We had a 360 degree view of Hart, Steens Mtn to the east, the Nevada desert to the South, along with Mt. Shasta, and the Oregon desert unfolding in front of us to the north. A picture just wouldn't do this spot justice. It was just top of the world beautiful.

After meeting back up with Jen, we pushed on to the nameless peak that loomed above the hot springs campground. The dogs were dead tired from working their way through the sage, but we all enjoyed kicking back at the the summit - especially Elka.

Check out all the pictures here .

Elk Cove to McNeil Point

We escaped the city last weekend for a brief but beautiful trip on Mt. Hood's Timberline Trail. Knowing that it's August and the crowds are out around this popular trail, we hiked in from a less frequented  trailhead near Lawrence Lake out of Parkdale (Hood River area).

The hike in was not too scenic, and there wasn't much break from the climbing. Inspiration Point , at around 3 miles, is the first real view of the magnificent mountain and the trail's destination.

At five miles, we arrived at the intersection with the Timerline Trail, along the spectacular Elk Cove meadow. While we saw only two hikers on the way up, Elk Crove was crawling with hikers who were arriving from various directions - around the Timberline Trail from the west and from Cooper Spur a bit further east.

After chatting with a few folks, we realized there was a bit of an "every man for himself" attitude about getting a good spot to camp. We ended up with a lovely spot just around the edge of the trees looking up at the summit's glaciers. It was a warm evening and we took a short walk in the dark and enjoyed feeling the microclimates around the meadows areas. We slept well (still adjusting to the new tent ), including waking late in the nite to the sound of a nearby owl.

We woke early the next morning, and set out on the Timberline Trail towards McNeil Point, a beautiful overlook with an old stone shelter. The morning was cool and clear as we dipped in and out of the trees along the trail.

The three or so miles to McNeil Point involves several wider stream crossings, both of which were easily passable, but were considerably louder and bigger on our way back to Elk Cove later that afternoon. At the Ladd Creek  crossing, Elka and I sat very still while Jeff took a photo of an inquisitive marmot  sunning itself along a boulder dam. McNeil Point overlooks the Muddy Fork  area of Mt Hood, the most lush and fertile area of the mountain. The green ridges of the Cascades roll out for miles and miles as far as the eye can see.

After a brief lunch at the point, we headed back to Elk Cove to pack up and head back down the trail.  Motivated by the thought of a beer and pizza back in Hood River, we sped down the five miles back to the car - tired, dusty, and happy.

Check out all the pictures HERE!

Hager Mountain Fire Lookout

Leg one of our little excursion out into southeastern Oregon was an overnight hike to stay at the fire lookout at the top of Hager Mountain, just south of the town of Silver Lake.

Hager Mountain Fire Lookout Photo Album

We left Portland on Sunday morning and headed out towards Bend across the backside of Mt. Hood. Early morning snow flurries against a dark sky made the transition from the forest into the Warm Springs desert more dramatic. Canyons, sagebrush, and big sky signaled our arrival east of the Cascade mountains. We traveled south through Madras (where my mom grew up), Redmond, Bend, and LaPine, before turning southeast for the "Oregon Outback" on Highway 31.

Marion Lake Trail

Jeff and Molly and Elka hiked 11/21/04
View Photos

From I-5 take Hwy 22 South past Detroit about 26 miles to Marion Lake Road and turn left.  If you follow this road for 4.4 miles to the parking lot, you can I hike into Lake Ann and Marion Lake.  The trail is a main Access route to  the Mt. Jefferson Wilderness and the Oregon Skyline section of the Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail.

The trail is not difficult at all, with a bit of climbing up a few switchbacks around mile 2, but otherwise pretty much flat.

Each lake is different, and definitely worth the hike.

This is about a 5 mile loop, rated easy to moderate.

Tam McArthur Rim Trail

Molly, Jeff and Elka Hiked 11/20/04
View Photos

From Sisters, turn South on Elm Street (Road 16 right in downtown) and park in the trail area near Three Creek Lake.

The lakes are at considerably higher elevation than Sisters and it can be chilly even on day that is warm in town. Dress in layers, bring a jacket and some water, and some insect repellent is a good idea. 

Tam McArthur Rim Trail is clearly marked on the left hand side of the road as you round the bend and first see 3 Creeks Lake.

The round trip to the cliff-edge viewpoint overlooking the Three Sisters is five miles The hike is fairly strenuous, partly because it is at relatively high elevation; five miles may feel like more than it sounds.              

Sisters, Oregon

Last week we took Friday off and traveled south on I-5 to Eugene, and then hung a left and headed East toward Sisters, OR for two nights away at a great bed and breakfast, and two days of hiking some of the most beautiful country we have seen yet.

One the way to Sisters, about an hour outside of Eugene, we stopped at Cougar Hot Springs, also known as Terwilleger Hot Springs.  Many people, including the Prince of Hot Springs, Erik Johnson, had clued us in that this is one of the great Hot Springs.

After Cougar we got back on the road to Sisters and arrived maybe an hour later.  After dinner, we made it to Aspen Meadow Lodge, and met our great host, Don and his dog Smokey.

This B&B is awesome and we highly recommend it if you can make a trip to the beautiful country around Sisters.

Our first trip was Tam McArthur Rim Trail on Saturday, and on Sunday we visited Marion Lake.

Elka had the time of her life and dutifully carried 2 QTs of water for us in her pack :)

McNeil Point

I took just these two pictures on a recent short backpack on Mt. Hood, but they surprisingly capture some of the astounding beauty and rapidly shifting weather patterns around the mountain.

Elka and I joined our friend and neighbor, Marci, and her dog Stacey, on an overnight trip up off Lolo Pass Rd. on the northwest side. We got a late start on Sat. evening and, after conflicting directions in our book and map, unfortunately headed out the "wrong" trail. These pics are taken from that trail, around the side of Bald Mountain. About an hour later, we confirmed that we were headed the opposite direction that we intended, so headed back to the car, where we slept with the dogs and decided to start out again in the morning.
On Sunday, Marci took me on my first hike on the Timberline Trail up to McNeil Point. We were again in the clouds and didn't have much visibility, but enjoyed the unbelieveable alpine landscape and vegetation. We admired a beautiful purple wildflower, Explorer's Gentian, that was thriving in the steep, boggy meadow below McNeil Point.

The dogs of course were oblivious to any misdirection... and had a superb time!

Twin Lakes, Mt. Hood National Forest

Our nephew Mitchell flew up from Southern California to join us on a beautiful pack trip that took in a portion of the Pacific Crest Trail up close to Mt. Hood.

Twin Lakes is, of course, two lakes, the first of which is about 3.5 miles from the trailhead at Barlow Pass.    We were very concerned about mosquitos after the trip to Three Sisters a few weeks earlier, but to our surprise, and utter delight, we encountered nary a mosquito - literally! It was an amazing bit of good timing (and luck).  The weather was perfect - not too hot and no rain.

Elka was on about her third trip with the new pack and she is now an old hand at carrying at least her food, the frisbee she eats and drinks from, and (shhh, dont tell her) the CHOCOLATE which on a recent trip to Steens almost killed her.